NJ Lawns Community

Hey everyone, new here and looking for some advice. Just moved to a neighborhood in Rutherford that has pretty strict HOA rules about lawn appearance. My backyard is mostly tall fescue with some KBG patches the previous owner seeded. I've been getting mixed advice from the guys at the home improvement store but wanted to hear from local folks who've actually dealt with HOAs around here. What weed-and-feed products do you guys recommend for this area? I'm trying to avoid getting a citation for a ragged-looking lawn come summer. Is it better to stick to separate weed killer and fertilizer applications or go with the combined stuff? Timing tips for Bergen County specifically would be super helpful too.

Welcome to the forum! I run a lawn care service out of Englewood so I deal with HOA properties all the time in this county. Here's my take - the combo products are convenient but you're often sacrificing performance for ease. For tall fescue and KBG like you've got, I'd go with separate applications myself. Hit the weeds early with a 2,4-D based herbicide around late April/early May when temps hit the 60s consistently, then follow up with a good nitrogen fertilizer around Memorial Day. For products, Scotts Turf Builder with Weed Control works okay if you want the combo route, but honestly the Andersons Professional PGF liquid is what I use on most of my client properties. Get it at SiteOne or Kingdom in Ramsey - they've got knowledgeable staff there who can point you to the right stuff for your specific grass mix.

I'll respectfully disagree with the separate application recommendation here. Not everyone has time to spray and then fertilize two different weekends. For a busy suburban homeowner just trying to stay off the bad list with their HOA, the Scott's Bonus S actually works pretty solid if you apply it correctly. The key is timing - most people mess this up. DON'T apply it when temperatures are climbing into the 80s yet, you'll burn everything. Early May is still iffy some years. I wait until mid-to-late May when we've had a few consistent rain events and the soil is actually warm. That tall fescue you're growing handles heat fine once it's established but the seedlings from last fall might be stressy still. Also hit up the local Gertie Garden center in Hackensack instead of the big boxes - they actually know what they're recommending and it's often fresher stock.

Fair point on the timing Steve makes - that's honestly where most homeowners screw up. They're out there fertilizing in March thinking "spring" when our ground is still borderline cold and the grass can't even use the nitrogen yet. That said Gertie's is good for sure - I've sent a few clients there. If you do go the combo route, don't cheap out on the application rate thinking less is more. Under-application is the second biggest mistake I see. The label directions exist for a reason. One thing nobody mentioned - for pre-emergent control on those crabgrass issues we always get in the suburbs, apply Dimension or Barricade BEFORE you see the weeds germinating. Once you've got visible crabgrass you're past the point of prevention and hunting with post-emergent. Throw down some prodiamine in late March/early April and save yourself headaches later.

This is incredibly helpful, thanks both of you! I'm definitely learning I need to pay way more attention to timing than just grabbing whatever's on sale. Quick follow-up - what about dealing with creeping charlie? We've got some patches in the backyard that came with the house. Is that something I can hit with the same products or does it need special treatment? I've read conflicting things online and don't want to wreck my actual grass while trying to kill the weeds.

Creeping charlie is the worst honestly. That stuff is literally indestructible some years! Trimec or Celsius WG are your best bets for broadleaf weeds including charlie in cool season grasses. Both will knock it back without annihilating your tall fescue too badly if you follow the label. Hit it in fall (late September through mid-October) when it's actively storing energy in the roots - you'll get better absorption than spring applications. A couple passes over several weeks beats one heavy application. And honestly? Sometimes you've just got to dig it out by hand in problem spots. Nobody likes hearing that but sometimes elbow grease is the answer.